We managed to find tiny octopus the size of small grey mice when cooked. However, larger octopus will work, but the cooking time will, naturally, be longer. Continue cooking, covered, for 40 minutes longer.To serve, place one piece of toast in each of four large shallow bowls and ladle tripe and broth over it. Serve with Parmesan, to be stirred in by each diner according to taste.The octopus, serves 4I have taken the liberty of combining the octopus with the side order of beans that we ate with it, and turning it into a sort of soupy stew The results were really terrific. However, the tripe that is sold on these shores is already very well blanched, indeed – too much, actually. I bought mine in America, but Books for Cooks (0171-221 1992) carry imported copies.Genoese Tripe Soup, serves four, generouslyNote: In the original recipe, it is suggested that the tripe be previously blanched in boiling water for 30 seconds with some vinegar. Add the tomato paste and half the beef stock, stirring well so that the paste melts into the middle.Add tripe, cover pot, and cook over a very low heat for 212 hours Add remaining beef stock and potatoes, and season to taste.

It will bring the whole dish together.900g/2lb honeycomb (if possible) beef tripe, cut into pieces about two inches by one inch110g/4oz buttera splash of olive oil3-4 flat leaves parsley sprigs, finely chopped leaves from 3-4 sprigs thymeleaves from 3-4 sprigs of marjoram or oregano110g/4oz beef marrow (ask your butcher to saw enough marrow bones into two-inch pieces, soak them in cold water and scoop out the marrow, a couple of large bones should suffice4 level tbsp tomato paste2 litres/312 pints well-flavoured beef stock900g/2lb waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 12in slicessalt and freshly ground white pepper4 large thick slices of country style bread, toastedfreshly grated Parmesan cheeseMelt the butter with the olive oil in a suitable pot over low heat, then add the parsley, thyme, marjoram or oregano, and marrow, and cook together, stirring as the marrow melts, for about five minutes. So might I suggest that a trickle of fine red wine vinegar is introduced towards the end of the cooking time. The taste of vinegar, however, should not be overlooked when preparing tripe. It wasn’t planned, checked out, nor were we informed of its existence.The TripeThis recipe for Genoese Tripe Soup (Sbira) comes from Colman Andrews’s astonishingly fine Flavors of the Riviera – Discovering Real Mediterranean Cooking (Bantam Books), unfortunately not as yet published here. I again ordered porcini, simply because I can’t get enough of them. A risotto of the same followed my friend’s insalata tricolore, while a dish of trippa alla Fiorentina beckoned, simply because I love tripe and was hungry.

Bollocks to the panini!The food was good, not great, but it was just so enjoyable. In fact, I remember it as possibly the most enjoyable lunch of the holiday. The tree-shaded terrace was already full of families who had arrived in good time (we were there by 1pm), so we had to eat indoors It was the last table. But bread appeared, cool red wine was brought, orders were promptly administered.A tomato and mozzarella salad with basil, was as milky-white, ripe red and pungently green as you could wish. Inside, you could also buy various local salamis, hams and cheeses. However, I still thought it was worth looking up somewhere for lunch. “Uscita 18 looks worth the toll,” I muttered, as I veered across three lanes…The world and his wife – and most of Florence – were having lunch at Ristorante Marisa that day.